Process of making fabric.



W. HfSC OTT, fin. PROCESS OF MAKING FABRIC. APPLICATION FILED JAN-21.1918.

PatentedA iig. 13, 1918.

550. Jim

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM HENRY SCOTT, JR., OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO SUSQUEHANNA SILK MILLS, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

PROCESS OF MAKING FABRI EC.

Specificationof Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 13, 1918.

To all whom, it may concern:

Be it known that 1, WILLIAM H. SCOTT, J r., a citizen of the United States of America, residing at 149 Madison Ave, New York city, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Processes of Making Fabric, of which the following 1s a specification, reference being had therein to the. accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to a new fabric and the recess of making same.

T e object of my invention is the production of a valuable fabric at a very low cost and at the same time the reproduction of the effect of certain high class fabrics known in the art as covert-coats in an inexpensive and rapid way that willinvolve minimum commercial risks in merchandising such new substitute and through its lower cost make the beauty of the original covert-coats accessible to a much larger field of application.

Another obj ect of my invention is the production of a new fabric, using as a basis of my work a piece-dyed, ribbed fabric and then so treating this piece-dyed fabric by a relatively simple yet novel method for producing a handsome finished cloth or fabric.

With these and other objects in view, my invention consists of certain constructions and arrangements of, parts as will hereinafter be fully described and claimed.

In the drawings Figure l is a diagram of a machine used in my process for producing my new fabric.

Fig. 2 is a plan View of piece-dyed fabric prior to being treated 'in the manner hereinafter specifically described, while,

Fig. 3 is a plan view of a piece of finished fabric produced in accordance with the present invention.

Fig. 4 is an enlarged fragmentary view of a portion of the engraved roller, my fabrio and the primary roller, shown in general outlines inFig. 1.

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary, enlarged, perspective view ofthe engraved roller, for indicating the fine lining, or delicate surfaced construction thereof.

In carrying out the present invention, it is to be understood that my processrelates particularly to surface printing and that the process pertains more particularly to the treatment of ribbed goods and especially to piece-dyed silk-Warp ribbed goods.

I have found after long experience in the art to which this invention relates that by taking uneven, or more particularly ribbed goods, and placing the same on supply roller 1,- Fig. 1, passing the goods 2 around the primary roller 3, causing the engraved roller 4 to impress lightly the cloth 2 on only one face thereof, that a very beautiful effect plication of minute quantities of color does not permeate the entire cloth. The warp threads in a silk warp ribbed fabric cover to a large extent. the filling threads somewhat like a grate and are the ones on which in view of the very shallow engraving used in my process, the color or specking effect is the greatest (see Fig. 4).

For the value of the product of my process it is necessary that this is the case as theoriginal dye colorof the fabric will shine through the small openings of the warp threads and'blend both colors, the dyed and the superficially applied ones, into a. harmonious appearance without showing any design.

I have found thatit is quite essential that the engraving carrying the coloring matter is in its units smaller than the distance between two picks (filling threads) that are contained in the fabric, that is to be converted according to my process. The product of my process is essentially the outcome of a careful study of depths of engraving, its unit length in proportion to the distance between two picks, and the thickness and roundness of the ribs in the fabric that is to be treated.

As a result of extensive and practical experience with this fabric, I find that the v best results are obtained on silk-'warp, ribb,ed 1.piece-goods, but substantially thesa'me' re sults can beobtained with -anyribbedgoods. j r

Itis to be understood that in 'my ip'rocess,

I produce this beautiful fabric with a comparatively few number of picks", (fillingn threads), the reduction of the picks or filling threads in my fabric materlally reducing :the cost of manufacture. ,Though, therefore, the construction of the fabric is a coarse one in the filling threads, neverthe- 1 ss, through the application of minute quantities of; color, of which there falls more than one unit onto one rib in the vast majority of the impressions between roller and fabric] the effect created on the single 1 It is to be understood that the treatment I of the fabric shown in Fig. 2 to a lightcoating of coloring matter amounting to speck- "ing of one surface of the goods, produces what appears to be a changeable color effect only on one side and that the character of v its gloss is infinitely more refined than the color light, such as is producedon my fabcharacter of changeableness that is commonly produced in the market through the warp being dyed to one color and the filling to another.

' Furthermore,there is, commercially speak- ,ing, an increase of luster on goods treated according tomy process which seems to coincide with the theory that While single color light reflects at only one angle, multiric through the application of a second color thread reflect ts gloss in an additional d1- on an individual thread, will make; such rection than if it were singly colored.-

It is also to be understood that another novel aspect of thisinvention is -tliat the above process tends largely to make the ribbed character of the goods disappear (see .Fig. 3 of the drawing) and thereby make the finished product or fabric suitable for purposes for which the same goods when conv the original color of the cloth .on one face thereof; it is desirable only to treatin the vertedin the ordinary piece-dyed waywould not be suitable. t

.In passing the fabric 2 through the machine between rollers 3 and 4, there happens byreason of its shallow engraving slight coloring or specking (Fig. 4) on one surface only and not changing at all of way herein specified one side of the cloth, WhlCl'lPI'OdllCQS asfound from practical experience, an effect of a variable color since the-warp and fillings are lost to an'ordinary observerthe specks of coloring matter, which held in the greatest quantities on the outer surfaces of the warp threads also are found in some degree on the filling,

the entire specked or lightly colored surreason of my observations and experiments,

that I have found that the minute application of color carried on an even surface will produce very even effects (distinct designs on smooth goods), which means that on smooth goods, not ribbed goods, the applying of a coating of coloring matter will practically cause a blotching or smearingefi'ect, but that by following out my improve process or method, a uniform treated surface is roduced on uneven or rough surfaced goo s that gives a variable color effect to one side of the fabricsuch rough or ribbed goods when treated in accordance with my process produces what appears to be a woven fabric, which is only possible because of the ribbed warp and filling threads falling in the manner hereinafter described, as to create an impression on an ordinary observer that the surface-printed goods or fabric has been produced, not through printing, but by a special weaving of a mixture of different colored warp and filling (woof) threads.

What I claim is:

1. The process of, producing a new fabric piece goods to a minute application of evenly-distributed color. a

2. The process of producing a new fabric, showing essentiallythe effect of a material woven with a mixture of different colored warp and filling threads, by subjecting a silk warp ribbed material to a specking of its individual threads with minute quantities of color entirely and evenly over only one of its surfaces. f a

In testimony whereof I hereunto aflix my signature.

WILLIAM HENRY SCOTT, JR, 

